Thursday, April 28, 2011
Enough is enough
That's it - I've had it.
I just CANNOT WAIT ANY LONGER to tell you about my favorite part of our trip to Vietnam. I tried to be a good girl and post things in order so you could get some idea of the flow of our trip - but I just can't do it anymore!
Whew, now that that's out of my system...shall we?
My FAVORITE part of our trip to Vietnam, hands down, was a sunrise photography tour that I took on our third day in Hoi An. That would be the day after our motorcycle trip (more on that later) and two days after our walking tour of Hoi An (also coming later).
I was a little queasy about the fact that I was getting picked up from my hotel at 4:45 AM....read it again (especially if you know me, like at all) - 4:45 AM. Just thinking about it brings that sick feeling in my stomach again. Glad thats over!
But seriously, getting up early was totally and completely worth it. After picking up the other members of the tour we set out for a small fishing village outside of Hoi An. We started off on a small ferry boat that took us to the town. It was a cool, hazy morning. At first I was a little upset that we weren't going to get to see a great sunrise - the light was really flat and the haze was just sitting on top of us like a cloud. As I started shooting though, I realized that the light made everything look a little more mysterious, a little more muted than it might normally be. Some of the palest photos on this post are completely unedited, and show a true reflection of the light that day.
Our morning went as follows - first we went to observe the fisherman bring in their morning catch and sell it on shore, after which the fish are taken to the market to be sold again. Then we would walk through the small town, visit with the locals, take a (much needed) coffee break, and then visit two local businesses before making our way back to the small ferry.
We arrived at our first stop just in time to see the fishermen pull up in their boats, ready with the catch of the day. The fishermen fill up their small basket boats with the fish and take it to shore where a slew of feisty women were waiting to grab whatever they could as fast as they could, buy it on the spot, and immediately take it out to the markets to be resold. (side note - the basket boats were originally invented when the local government, back in the day, started taxing the fisherman on their boats. The fishermen crafted super large "baskets" to take to shore from their large fishing boats. When the government tried to tax them on it, they replied back that it wasn't actually a boat - it was a basket. Taxation avoided)
This was absolute mayhem.
The women moved and talked and yelled so fast, for the first few minutes I just stood there stunned not knowing what to do. Finally, I jumped in to action and was able to get some great shots.
After the craziness down by the water calmed down a bit, we made our way in to town. Most of the young people leave the village in the early morning to go work in Hoi An or Da Nang, the bigger towns and cities close by. That means that during the day, most of the people left in town are children and older people. This makes for great photography!
After our stroll around town we made our way to a family run fish sauce making business, and then we went to the home of a woman who makes traditional cakes and sells them to shops in Hoi An. Clearly you know who my favorite was in this round of photos.
And then before I knew it, it was time to head back to the small ferry. As we wandered back along the water I tried to take it all in, quietly observing the activities of a life so different from my own. I wanted to absorb every site, every smell, every thing that was going on around me.
For more information about the Sunrise Photo tour that I took, check out their website here and their facebook page here. You can check out some more of my photos on my facebook album as well!
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
Heaven on Earth
Please allow me to introduce you to, quite possibly, heaven on earth.
A little place called The Nam Hai, our humble abode for 6 days while we were in Hoi An.
As you drive down the winding lane leading from the busy main road, the rest of the world falls away. The motorbikes, the people, the honking horns...all silenced.
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| photo by Brian |
You pull up to the concierge, where a team of people are waiting to collect your bags and whisk you away to check in...
With room key in hand and yoga schedule in your bag, take a walk around the back of the reception building (before you go too far, make sure you turn around and take in the view behind you...)
And make your way down to the pool area (take your pick of three pools - or the ocean if thats your thing)...
Oh hello, lap pool
And finally you make it to the main pool and sun deck area...
Just a little bit further now and you'll come to the beach (again, don't forget to take in the view behind you)...
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| photo by Brian |
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| photo by Brian |
You might marvel at the raise bed, ensuring the perfect view from sunrise to sunset. Or you might immediately curl up on the couch...
And enjoy the view...
Or head out to your patio, and enjoy the other view...
On your way back inside - - oh hello!
Draw open the intricately carved doors...
To find your bathroom (which is bigger than my first apartment in NYC, hands down). And finally, open the french doors leading out to the best part of the whole villa...
By this point you are probably starving. There has been so much to take in, so many wonderful views - you really should eat something.
Head back to the main hotel (you can either walk along the beach, along the foot path or feel free to call that nice man with the golf cart) and grab an afternoon snack at the beach cafe.
If you are going to visit heaven on your honeymoon (which many of the guests are), you might find a little surprise waiting for you back at your villa...
Before you drift off to dream world, I highly encourage you to mingle with the other guests (don't worry, you don't have to see them ever again if you don't want to) and grab a night cap at the hotel bar...
And continue to take in the views.
Monday, April 25, 2011
I interrupt these Vietnam recaps...
Lemon Curd Cupcakes to be exact.
You might remember a couple months ago when I made this Lemon Curd Cake. There's a birthday coming up this week and the birthday girl is a BIG fan of lemon cake. She's actually a fan of anything lemon, but really, does it get any better than lemon curd cake?
I decided to use the same Martha Stewart Lemon Curd Cake recipe but turn it in to cupcakes. The result was mediocre. Sure, the cupcakes tasted alright, but they didn't stay as fluffy and light as other cupcake recipes I have. Add a lemon curd center and cream cheese frosting though and they went from OK to AWESOME in a matter of seconds.
I found these super cute Cath Kidson cupcake liners too - they screamed SPRING to me.
In goes the batter
When cool, take an apple corer and take out the center. Eat the little bits while filling the middle with lemon curd
I switched up the frosting this time. When I made this as a cake I used the recommended meringue frosting. This time I wanted something that packed a little more punch, so I used Nigella's cream cheese frosting recipe. The tangy frosting went well with the sour lemon curd, and both were balanced by the mellow flavor of the white base cake.
Lemon Curd Cake
Adapted from Martha Stewart's Baking Handbook
I only used one type of flour (all-pourpose) which I think is why I got a denser cake. I suggest using half and half as the recipe calls for.
2 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature (1 cup)
1 1/2 cups all-pourpose flour
1 1/2 cups cake flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons grated lemon zest (about 2 lemons)
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 cups sugar
4 large eggs
Lemon Curd (homemade or store bought - I used Dutchy Originals Organic Lemon Curd)
- Preheat the oven to 350* F (about 170* C), line cupcake pan and set aside. Sift together the flours, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl. In a separate bowl mix together the sour cream, lemon zest and lemon juice.
- In a large bowl, mix the butter on medium speed until fluffy. Add the sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, until incorporated.
- Turn the mixer down to low, and slowly add in the flour mixture in four parts. Alternate adding the flour and sour cream mixture, beginning and ending with the flour mix. Mix until just combined, being careful not to over mix.
- Divide batter between cupcake liners and bake for 16-18 minutes, rotating half way through to ensure even baking. Let the cupcakes rest for a couple of minutes in the pan before removing and cooling on a wire rack.
- Once the cupcakes are cool, remove the center of the cupcake with the apple corer - be careful not to go all the way to the bottom, try to leave a small amount of cake on the liner. Use a small spoon to drop in the lemon curd until it reaches the top. Leave to set.
- Frost with cream cheese buttercream and enjoy!
Cream Cheese Frosting
Adapted from Nigella's Kitchen cookbook
I added about 1 tsp vanilla extract to help round out the flavors. Feel free to add if you like or make without per the original recipe. I love using Nigella's recipes as the directions are no fuss and super easy, it doesn't get much easier than this!
500g powdered sugar
125g cream cheese
125g unsalted butter, room temperature
1 tsp lemon juice (or cider vinegar)
- Mix powdered sugar, cream cheese and butter until incorporated.
- Add lemon juice (and vanilla, if using) and mix again to combine until smooth and glossy.
- Decorate as needed, try to get some on the cupcakes and not just in your mouth (I always have trouble with this step).
mix - bake - fill - frost - unwrap - ENJOY
Sunday, April 24, 2011
Cuc Gach Quan
Enter, Cuc Gach Quan
I actually found this restaurant through TripAdvisor. I usually consult trip advisor for restaurants, hotels and things to do, but tend to take its recommendations and comments with a grain of salt. Since, however, I didn't know squat about dining in HCMC I took TA's word for it and booked the #1 restaurant they recommended.
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| chopsticks anyone? |
The restaurant is in an old French colonial house, down a small side street and hidden from the masses that roam the streets of HCMC. Walking in the front door is like walking in to an old friends home - immediately familiar and comfortable. We ate in one of the front rooms, it could have been a living room or a front sitting room if the tables and chairs were replaced with sofas.
The menu was extensive, not only broken down in to courses but also broken down by type of food (appetizers, mains, then down to vegetables, chicken, pork, etc etc). We picked a couple of things off the menu and then asked our server what he recommended. Happily, he steered us in the right direction.
The spring rolls - so fresh. The soft shelled crab - so light and crispy. The tiger beer - came with ice.
Did that throw you? Yeah me too. Who knew - ice in beer is a good thing. Especially when its 90* and 99% humidity.
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| can you spot the iced beer in the background? |
It was a tough job, but someone had to do it.
Friday, April 22, 2011
Introducing...
So, change there will be.
I'm makin' some changes around here...starting with my name.
Not my real name of course, just the blog name.
Although if I were to change my real name, I would probably change it to one of those crazy names that celebrities are naming their kids nowadays - like Apple or Tallulah. I'd be so fancy.
Right, back to the blog.
I thought it was high time this blog got a real name. Its been growing and evolving ever since I started it over two years ago. Its really coming in to its own, and I have more plans for it in the future. So, a new name.
the traveling cupcake (thats me!)
New address - make sure to save it to your favorites - http://havecupcakewilltravel.blogspot.com (better yet, become a follower and get my blog delivered to your inbox free of charge!)
Unfortunately 'the traveling cupcake' domain name was already taken on blogger. Can't win 'em all.
As I mentioned before, there will be some more changes coming up, so look for those soon!
Project 52 - back on track
This years Project 52, will only end up being Project 49 for me.
I have a good excuse, really I do!
Unfortunately I missed week 13, 14 annddd 15 due to a little thing called my honeymoon.
See, told you it was a good excuse.
But have no fear!! I'm back on track now. I know, you were scared. It's all going to be ok. The suns out, it has to be ok.
This weeks theme - Furry Friends.
Actually, I almost missed this weeks assignment as well as the only furry friend I have is Brian. But I didn't think he would appreciate being put in that category.
And then!!!
A last minute request to watch our favorite cockapoo EVER, Tucker.
Low and behold - a furry friend.
And we're rolling, rolling
if you come down to the river
i bet you gonna find some people who live
you don't have to worry if you got no money
people on the river are happy to give
~ tina turner
The second day of our trip found us on a boat cruise down the Mekong Delta. I would venture to say that the Mekong Delta is the very heart of Vietnam. The region produces 50% of Vietnams rice crops every year and hundreds of fruits and vegetables are grown here and exported all over the country (and the world!). The Mekong River starts in Tibet and flows through China, Burma, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and finally empties out to the South China Sea. Dams constructed upstream in Thailand and China threaten to cut off the supply of water to the region (not to mention nearly all of Cambodia), and many of the countries have formed joint commissions to take charge of the rivers resources.
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Cu Chi Tunnels
Thats right, we jumped head first in to confrontation with the big elephant in the room - the Vietnam War.
Ok, so maybe its not such a big elephant anymore. Americans are the fifth largest nationality to visit Vietnam each year (French and Australian being the biggest). And some 65% of the population is under the age of 35. Like I said, not such a big elephant anymore.
But still, a little uncomfortable.
The Cu Chi Tunnels are a series of underground tunnel systems that the Viet Cong used in their battle against the American army, especially during the Tet offensive. The tunnel system is long and complex, sprawling over 3 levels at some points and included living space and cooking areas for the Vietnamese civilians.
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Step one
The motorcycle.
Sunday, April 17, 2011
One thousand, seven hundred and eighty nine
I think there are another 50 or so lost out there in memory card land...we are missing photos from a whole afternoon - but 1,789 is fine for now.
Seven flights, four books, a dozen and a half bug bites, and fifteen days later - our honeymoon is officially over.
So...how was it you ask?
In a word - Incredible
Yeah thats right, with a capital I.
If there is one place that you should go and see NOW, it's Vietnam. There is so much development going on in the whole country, in another 2-5 years its going to become like any other tropical vacation destination - completely sterile. And we were late to the party - thousands of people have been visiting Vietnam for decades now, and selfishly they kept the best kept secret to themselves.
We saw so many different parts of the country, so many different ways of life -its hard to sum up in a few words.
What was so incredible?
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