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Labels:
france,
gelatto,
go here - now,
happy,
hiking,
photography,
road trip,
sun,
travel
Labels:
france,
gelatto,
go here - now,
happy,
hiking,
photography,
road trip,
sun,
travel
Thursday, September 08, 2011
Around town...in the South of France
Toulouse
The night that we arrived in France we decided to stay in Toulouse and head out on the open road the following morning as we were arriving quite late. After quickly checking into our hotel we headed straight back out for dinner. Honestly, I hadn't given Toulouse a thought. We were only there for a few hours, most of which would be spent sleeping. However, as I have happily experienced many time before, often times when you have no plans or expectations is when you can have the best time.
St. Stapin
One objective for taking the back roads during our drive to Neffies the next morning was to explore the countryside. We wanted to see rural France rather than the endless, bland motorway. Along the way we found a lookout point. We parked the car and worked up an appetite (which was to be rewarded with cassoulet) and when we finally got to the top (all of ten minutes later...) we were rewarded.
Pezenas
Our last night in France we decided to go to Pezenas for dinner. It's much larger than Neffies and we knew they would have restaurants open even though it was a Sunday evening. We were told to make sure that we found the "real center of town" for the best restaurants, and to avoid the touristy bit at the beginning. I think all the sun had gone to our heads because we didn't listen. Our dinner might not have been the best of the weekend, but this town sure was lovely.
Neffies
I awoke early on our last day in France. We had a couple hours until breakfast but I knew I wouldn't be able to sleep. The sun was out and I could feel it getting hot already. I took this chance to take a walk around town and enjoy the peace and quiet that only early morning can offer. Early morning light is the best light, to me at least, even though I rarely see it. It was a perfect way to say goodbye to this town I felt so at home in, even only after a couple of short days.
Marseillan
We spent the last day driving along the coast, visiting small town after small town before heading to Montpellier and then onward back to London. The sun was strong and the heat made me tired (though I was not complaining). We arrived at Marseillan and had a wander around this sleepy town on the Mediterranean. It was almost as if I was in a dream. Lunch on the marina, a cool breeze from the sea, gelato in the shade - a perfect way to end our trip...
Tuesday, September 06, 2011
Clos du Gravillas (notes on a vineyard) (they're organic too!)
When we booked our trip to France and decided to fly into Toulouse, a good two and a half hours from our bed and breakfast, we figured this would give us the chance to drive leisurely through the countryside and stop at as many vineyards as possible. We wanted to avoid the motorways and instead drive through small towns and on small roads and drink in as much of France as we could (literally and figuratively).
I reached out to many kind people to try and get appointments at vineyards that would a) find time to give us a tour and tasting during this insanely busy time for them (harvest season was about to kick off) and b) be able to give us said tour and tasting in English. It was no small feat but we were able to get two appointments that afternoon.
Regarding that dream drive...be careful what you wish for.
We wanted a slow, rustic drive through the French countryside? That we got indeed. Our two and a half hour journey quickly morphed into well over three (and probably closer to four) due to directions that took us on small farm roads (not kidding, there were times when we didn't drive on pavement for miles) and more hairpin turns than I care to remember - not to mention the incorrect time the GPS was picking up. All of which meant we were to arrive at our first appointment over an hour late. Luckily our host was gracious and understanding, and welcomed us when we finally arrived.
John Bojanowski, cofounder of Clos du Gravillas (along with this wife, Nicole), met us at the front gate to teach us all about their wines. Explaining that we were newbies to the region, he gave us some history on their vineyards as well as some more information about the area they were located in and the muscat that the region is famous for. Clos du Gravillas has been an organic vineyard now for two years and their mantra is to make the grapes the best they possibly can be, and then let the wine reflect that. Sounds pretty simple, right? It almost sounds too elementary - why wouldn't you let the grapes be the best that they can be? But so many vineyards nowadays chuck loads of chemicals into the soil and on the vines to ward off disease and pests, and pick every grape possible off the vine in order to produce the most amount of wine. Clos du Gravillas is different. They are a small producer and they consciously make the decision to be that way. They heavily prune their vines in order to get better, more concentrated grapes. Once the grapes are perfectly ripe they hand pick the grapes one by one - if it isn't good enough to put in your mouth, they don't put it in their basket. They even stomp their grapes with their own feet once harvested. If nothing else you know you're getting quality, pure wine.
Another unique thing about Clos du Gravillas is the terrain in which the vines grow - in gravel!
(Gravillas means gravel in French, hence the name of the vineyard)
It really was shocking to see flourishing grape vines, heavy with sugary ripe fruit, growing up from fields of white stone gravel. Whatever those little rocks do to the wine it sure is delicious! Currently they have 13 grape varieties growing on their land. These 13 varieties go into six or seven different blends each season - depending on what that seasons yield has been and what other new blends they are working on.
As I mentioned above it was the cusp of harvest season and they were in the middle of clearing out last years production - the wines had been aging for one year and were newly bottled. Labels were being applied, boxes being packed and room was being made for this years harvest. We must have tasted 7 different types of wine that afternoon, along with a muscat and other interesting dessert wines. Our favorites?
White
Emmenez Moi au Bout du Terret
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| au bout du terret |
A more unusual white variety from their other productions, but I think thats what we liked about it. It was light and crisp and tasted like the stones it grew in - but in a good way! I think wine pros call those mineral notes, I call it yummy. This was the wine we were supposed to take on our canoe trip with us, but I enjoyed it relaxing by the pool instead.
Red
Rendez Vous du Soleil
We left John and his winery with a new knowledge of wine making in France, a lesson in producing organically and bellies full of delicious wine (not to mention arms full of a few bottles to savor over the weekend). A big THANK YOU to John for having us and sharing his vineyard with us!
Notes:
Interested in buying some wine from Clos du Gravillas? Check the list here for where to buy - in the US, UK and France
Another big thank you to Christina Pickard, Richard de Fleury, Vanessa Woodfine and Louise Hurren for all of their help trying to get us set up with vineyard appointments - your kindness in helping us is so very much appreciated! Cheers!
Sunday, September 04, 2011
Canoeing in the Orb Valley
On our second day in southern France we decided to get our exercise on. And by exercise I mean half-heartedly dip my paddle into the water while basking in the sunshine and taking in the views.
I know...I know...I really shouldn't strain myself too hard, I'm bound to get an injury.
There were a couple of canoeing spots located close to where we were staying. We decided to drive to Roquebrun, a medieval town on the banks of the river Orb, about 40 minutes northwest of Neffies, where Canoe Roquebrun Grandeur Nature has several canoe trips mapped out along the Orb valley.
We decided to do a 5km canoe trip as we wanted to take our time and not be so "serious" about canoeing our little butts off. And, we were on vacation - you're lucky I even dragged myself away from the pool. The 5km trip that we were about to embark on was appropriately named "Ceps". It was fate.
Once we got 3943895380 pictures of B and I in front of the Ceps sign we were off on our little adventure! The weather was perfect - it was hot but not scorching, clear blue skies and a gentle breeze passed through the valley. Pretty much it was heaven on earth. The water was crystal clear and the river ranged from less than an inch deep (as proved by the numerous times we ran aground, the ten pounds of cheese and foie gras I had the night before dinner probably didn't help) to several meters (thats actually a guess, I'm not sure exactly how deep it got, but deep enough for me not to be able to see the bottom).
After a little while of paddling and taking in the incredible scenery we decided to stop for lunch.
What?? It had been, like, TWO HOURS since I had breakfast!
We pulled our canoes over on an embankment and spread out our feast. We had made a quick trip to the boulangerie and town store to pick up provisions - a baguette, goats cheese, sliced meats and the best little donut peaches I have ever had. These little guys were so ripe and juicy they actually tasted like candy to me. Which is good, because we forgot to bring dessert (and the bottle of wine we bought specially for the canoe trip - party FAIL).
After our bellies were full and I mustered the energy to go on, we continued down the river. If you were to take one of the longer trips you would encounter some pretty decent rapids for being in a plastic canoe. We, on the other hand, got the baby ones. No matter, they were a delight all the same! Just because they were mini doesn't mean that I didn't squeal my little head off! After all, they were the first rapids I had ever been on!
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| Sean and Adrienne braving the rapids! |
After all that excitement were were happy to mosey on down the last part of the river quietly and calmly. We didn't want it to be over. I wanted to stay on that river forever. But alas, the end was near. The only thing that made it even bearable to get off our plastic boat of dreams was the allure of the pool and a bottle of rose waiting for us back at Maison Dix.
Check out Canoe Roquebrun Grandeur Nature and all the canoeing options they offer in the Languedoc region - it's a definite "must do" if you are ever in the area!
Apologies for the photo qualities in this post. I had to take most of them on my iphone as I didn't want to risk my dSLR ending up in the drink!
Friday, September 02, 2011
Friday Favorites
Hello lovelies!
Thank G it was a short week this week. Recovering from a long weekend getaway is always tough...don't you feel bad for me?
This week was ushered in with bright sunshine and summer weather in the south of France and is exiting out the back with crisp fall temperatures (never mind that its been like that since July) and the start of a new month. A fall month at that. I have been whining for WEEKS about the cool temperatures, crisp chill in the air and having to wear pants and sweaters. Now, to my own defense the reason why I was complaining is because it was supposed to be summer. But now...ooohhh now - it's fall. So - bring on the cold weather, the cozy sweaters, hot apple cider and all things pumpkin. Come and get me fall - I've been practicing for two months!
(unless, of course, by some freak of nature we end up with a gloriously sunny and HOT weekend. Then - screw you fall! I'm breakin' out my flippy floppies and flippin' you the bird!)
(by which I have just officially scared off any chance of summer returning to London)
(you're welcome)
On to this weeks favorites! Chock full of randomness this week...enjoy!
*Weird Wedding Photos
Words cannot express how happy these two wedding photo collections make me. Amen for people taking wedding photos a little less seriously and a little more FUN! I'm not even going to put a teaser photo of them because they are too awesome, you have to look at all of them at the same time. Even if you don't like weddings AT ALL you at least have to check out the first one...I mean really, who can resist zombies?!
**Capes!
In my effort to embrace fall my eyes have been gravitating towards fun, cozy ways to keep warm this season. Always in need of a new jacket I can't help but think that this is the year I finally buy a cape (or poncho, whatever you want to call it). These have been on my radar for a few years now (and in stores all along the high street for ages), but as usual I am late to the party. Though I have to say, if you manage to get yourself a well made, classic piece it is bound to last you for decades. Enter - Burberry. Because really, who does a cape better than Burberry? No one.
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| Burberry Britt from Net-a-porter |
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| Aubin & Wills from Net-a-porter |
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| Jumpjack Twill Poncho from French Connection |
***The 25 Best Ice Cream Shops in the US - by Food & Wine
I am not kidding when I say this - I would base a whole cross country road trip around this list. Watch me, I dare you! Summer - Fall - Spring - Winter - whatever the season I am always down for ice cream! This list is seriously drool-worthy...have a napkin near by before jumping in!
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| 25 Best - does your favorite make the cut? |
A wine map of France a la London tube? Genius! I might need to buy one to frame and one to take with me on trips to France!
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| photo from de long wine |
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Labels:
fashion,
france,
friday favorites,
ice cream,
photography,
road trip,
weddings,
wine
Labels:
fashion,
france,
friday favorites,
ice cream,
photography,
road trip,
weddings,
wine
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