the traveling cupcake: Italy

Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts

Friday, January 13, 2012

Hotel Mayr - Italy

Even though we don't even own our first house yet, we already know where we want to own our second house. Yes I realize I am putting the cart before the horse here, but stay with me. The first time we went to the Dolomites in October 2010 we fell in love. We fell in love hard. We had a full on affair with the Dolomites, returning there for Christmas 2010 and 2011. We would have gone back a few more times last year but we forced ourselves to explore new places.

Whats so magical about the Dolomites?

*read more*

Thursday, December 15, 2011

Christmas Vacation

"Peace and joy and love are everywhere

You can feel the magic in the air

Let the spirit of the season carry us away

Hip, Hip Hooray for Christmas Vacation

Christmas vacation....

Christmas vacation...."

~Mavis Staples "Christmas Vacation

As you might have gathered by now - it's Christmas vacation time! By the time you read this I will be done (hopefully) with work for the week and getting ready for our Christmas vacation. We are doing it right this year and celebrating Christmas to the max. And who knows how to do Christmas the best??

Zee Germans!

And the Czech...

And the Italians...

That's right, we're going on a full Christmas market tour and we're hitting up the big guys - Prague and Munich. We are starting off our super Christmas vacation with a few days in Prague to hit up the Christmas markets and have a few potato dumplings while we're at it. Prague was the first European trip that Brian and I went on together over FIVE YEARS AGO!

Good god, did I just type that correctly??

Since we have been there already it will be nice to revisit our favorite places, check out the Christmas markets and tuck in to some goulash and potato dumplings (and a pint or two of Pilsner for Brian). I can't think of anything better to keep me warm!

Prague Christmas market

Next up we are off to Munich! The last time I went to Munich was *gulp* eight years ago when I was studying abroad. Pretty much all I remember is spending a lot of time at the Hofbrauhaus and spending the night in the hallway of our hostel due to a very LOUD, snoring guy in one of the bunks in our room. Worst.Guy.EVER.

So, needless to say, I am excited to go back and see some more of the city. And check out their many Christmas markets of course! I might even pick up a cuckoo clock or seven.

Munich Christmas market

When we were thinking about where we wanted to spend Christmas Eve and Christmas day we didn't have to think long. We tried to convince ourselves to go somewhere new and see another city. But in the end, Italy pulled at our heart strings and won (as usual).

What? It's been two months since we were last there...clearly it's time to go back! So, we are headed back to our favorite spot in the Dolomites - Castelrotto. We first visited this cute town in October, 2010 during our two week trip around Italy. We fell in love with Hotel Mayr and their delicious dinners that we decided to go back last Christmas. This year we decided to do it once again - maybe this will be a new tradition?! What we love about staying at Hotel Mayr is that you really feel like you are at home and with family (even though really, you are with a bunch of strangers). The family that owns and runs the restaurant are so warm and welcoming and really make you feel like part of the family. There are very few things that I look back at with such fondness as I do when I think of sitting with my husband in the hotel living room by the roaring fire, with a glass of red wine in my hand and a plate of homemade Italian Christmas cookies in front of me.

Pure heaven.

Monday, November 28, 2011

Around the World Christmas Tree

The first "big" trip that Brian and I took together while dating was to St. Croix in the Caribbean for a little winter sun. We had been dating for six or seven months and although it wasn't our first weekend away with each other, it was the first trip that required a plane ride. It was exciting and a little nerve-wracking. Happily, the trip went off without a hitch (apart from that one time when we were driving down the wrong side of the road - who knew they drove on the left hand side in St. Croix??).

While we were there we bought the funniest Christmas ornament to commemorate the trip, somehow we knew we would be spending lots of Christmas' together.

St. Croix, 2007

*read more*

Monday, October 31, 2011

Cinque Terre, Italy

During our only full day in Tuscany, we decided to leave.

Tuscany that is. We drove northwest to Liguria. The weather was supposed to be amazing and we wanted to take advantage of it the only way we knew how - by hiking. Before we left on our trip I did a quick Google maps search and found out that the famous Cinque Terre was only an hours drive from our hotel. So, after a leisurely breakfast at Locanda al Colle we were on our way.

At the recommendation of Riccardo we drove to the town of Portovenere and took the ferry to "the five lands". I had visited Cinque Terre with my friend Kelly during the semester abroad that I spent in Florence. I remember it being one of the most beautiful places I had seen that spring. The hiking was amazing, the towns were picturesque and the spaghetti we had for lunch was, for serious, out of this world.

Sadly, that was over eight years ago.

EIGHT.

...

*read more*

Friday, October 28, 2011

Friday Favorites...Anniversary Edition

Happy Anniversary!!

Three years ago this week we packed our bags and moved across the pond. Can you believe that?! Where does the time go...

I thought it would be fun to do a special anniversary edition of Friday Favorites in honor of the last three years - three action packed years at that. Our primary reason for moving was to take advantage of a new continent at our door step, and I think we've been doing a pretty good job...

Here are some of our favorite trips from the last three years -

*read more*

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Locanda Al Colle

To be perfectly honest, I didn't do much planning for our trip to Tuscany last weekend. A friend had already booked the trip and invited us along with them, so my flights and hotel were already chosen for me. Bonus. All I needed to do was show up.

Things that I can do in life:

1. Show up for a trip to Tuscany

2. Eat cookies

Sadly, our friends had to cancel their trip. We figured we might as well still go, heck the trip was already booked. But now...now I had to do some actual planning.

What airport were we flying in to?

Where the heck is Camaiore??

What kind of pasta am I going to eat?!

See? Things were getting scary, real fast.

Luckily, one thing I didn't have to worry about was where we were staying.

Enter Locanda al Colle.

aka - a little piece of heaven in the Tuscan country side.

My friend found this hotel through Mr and Mrs Smith (seriously, check them out ASAP if you think I am talking about a movie rather than an awesome boutique hotel website) - and let me tell you, the Smiths did not steer us wrong. Neither did the awesome reviewers on TripAdvisor - every.single. reviewer for this boutique hotel on TripAdvisor gave it an "Excellent" rating and wrote a glowing review.

So, did this place live up to all the hype?

You bet your boots it did.

It was more than what we could have imagined or hoped for from a place to rest our feet at night.

Upon arrival the first thing I noticed (besides all of the cute and welcoming nooks on the front patio that just screamed COME HERE AND DRINK A GLASS OF WINE! and all of the amazing flowers blooming around the entire property) was that there wasn't a check-in desk. There was no formal computer system or line of other guests waiting anxiously to get to their room. Instead, I was greeted by softly playing music as I stepped in to the hotels living room. Arianna appeared from nowhere and welcomed me right in. Within moments of telling her my name she had our room keys in hand and was showing me the way to our room.

Immediately upon entering the room I felt at home. I was hard for me not to kick off my shoes right then and there. After a quick tour of the room she was off again, and I was left to my own devices. As I usually do when I first get to a new hotel room, I went through every nook and cranny in the place. No drawer was left unopened, no door was spared from being opened. I read all the welcome pack information as well as had a peak at all the bath goodies and the rain shower in the bathroom. And then, I sat down and took it all in.

The room was impeccably decorated with vintage furniture, interesting mismatched pieces that perfectly fit together in a way that I could never replicate in my own home. The room was a calming mixture of taupe and sage green, eggshell and muted gold with pops of orange and wood furniture. The bathroom was divine. Bath products made from local olive oil, plush over sized towels and the biggest rain shower I have ever seen in my whole life nearly made me want to move right into the bathroom itself.

Of course if I had done that I would have missed sleeping in the most comfortable bed I have ever slept on in Italy. Not only was the bed comfortable and the bedding luxurious - but the pillows! These were the biggest, fluffiest, squishiest pillows I have ever slept on in probably all of Europe. Typically in European hotels (apart from all the big chains, obvi) the pillows are some sort of an after thought. Or maybe, Europeans don't really care about the quality of their pillows too much. All I know is that they usually leave us with a sore neck the next morning. But no...not these....

And the view....

Oh, the view....

If you look hard enough you can just see the coast and Mediterranean in the distance. I was surprised at first but then realized that we were only 5km away from the sea. Amazing, considering it felt like we were a million miles away from everything.

Locanda al Colle is nestled in the Northern Tuscan hills, about thirty minutes drive north of Pisa. Lucca is close by as well as many charming small towns, and the ritzy summer seaside town of Forte dei Marme is a mere ten minute drive away. Normally we stay in Southern Tuscany, so I was a little apprehensive about how we would like this area. I should never have feared (duh, we were in Italy after all). There are more than enough things to do here, I wish we could have stayed for a week rather than just the weekend.

In addition to our perfect room (next time I want to check out one of the Deluxe or Suite rooms which come with private outdoors space) the entire hotel (not that it's that big, there are only nine guest room in total) is decorated impeccably. Much of the furniture was picked up by Riccardo on his travels around the world and many pieces are vintage, perfectly preserved or restored. There is an odd mix of old and new, contemporary and vintage, but somehow it all just works.

The hotel also features artwork by local artists, from paintings to sculptures, displayed inside and out. Find a piece you really fancy? Just ask Riccardo for the price list and he is happy to indulge.

Speaking of indulgence - I haven't even started telling you about the food. Included in the rate was daily breakfast - served only from 9am to 11am (my kind of place - you don't have to worry about getting there early before all the good stuff is gone!) - and is a casual affair served in the communal kitchen. There are fresh breads with jam, cereals and yogurts, usually one sweet and one savory baked item and fresh fruit. Fancy some eggs? No problem! Place your order and Arianna or Riccardo will fix them right up for you, often times sitting down to join the guests for breakfast.

And if you are lucky enough to stay at Locanda al Colle on a Wednesday or Saturday night, you MUST take advantage of the home cooked dinner that is served. The chef (who used to work in a two star Michelin restaurant I might add) cooked us, and the other hotel guests, a delicious four course dinner. The evening starts with a glass of prosecco and canapes in the living room while you mingle with other guests or admire the artwork. Moving into the dining room you have your choice of wine (or more prosecco if that's how you want the night to go down) and then the courses start flowing.

While we were there we had a delicious polenta starter, followed by an artichoke and spec risotto and ended by pan fried sea bass with seasonal vegetables. Each bite was divine. And then, we had dessert. Arianna made an orange tiramisu that was out of the world. The orange flavor was so delicate and it was such an interesting and inventive twist on a traditional Italian dessert. We had an excellent time chatting with the other guests and learning more about Riccardo and his amazing hotel.

Oh yeah...I almost forgot to mention!

Don't forget to bring your bathing suit (like I did). There is a heated pool that is open year round.

Overall I have to give Locanda al Colle is glowing five star review (As if you couldn't tell that already). Not only is the hotel beautifully decorated and as comfortable as your own home (if not more!) but the hosts Arianna and Riccardo really do make this place special. They were both so helpful in recommending local restaurants and things to do, and were more than happy to print out ferry schedules and add their two cents on how to make our stay even more enjoyable. It is amazing to know that this place has only been open for a year and a half - when it seems like they have been doing this all their lives.

The value for money here is outstanding - but you better hurry up and go...this place won't stay a secret for long!

Locanda al Colle
Via della Stretta, 102
loc. Capezzano Pianore
55041 Camaiore (LU)
Phone +39 0584 915 195
http://www.locandaalcolle.com/

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Interesting European Photos (or, weird sh*t we see on vacation)

After a year or so of traveling around Europe, Brian and I started to notice some weird stuff goin' on. And I'm not talking about the normal cultural differences like clothing, hair styles or music. The stuff I'm talking about is more like weird advertisements, weird shop windows and (oddly enough) lots of weird photography studios.

So, without further ado, here is some weird shit we've seen from around Europe...

*Just a heads up, there are some semi-indecent photos below. So if you happen to be looking at this with your kid, you might want to tell them to scram. I think that is the only time I will ever have to put this kind of disclaimer on my blog...hopefully...*

Why are you looking at me like that, don't you let your giant stuffed bear straddle you?
~ photography studio in the South of France

Best damn ice cream bar you will ever have
~ Magnum ad outside of a cafe in Dubrovnik, Croatia

Honey, let's get a romantic photo of us and Dubrovnik (and that random lady walking behind us)
~ Dubrovnik, Croatia

Umm, yeah. I'm going to leave this one alone
~ Dubrovnik, Croatia

Frisky mannequins...buying sporting gear was never so erotic
~ Bolzano, Italy

Perfect, I've been looking for a KKK band to play at my next event
~Venice, Italy

Sadly this was taken in my neighborhood...I am not even going to try and explain this one
~ London, England

This was also taken in my neighborhood. Are the Power Rangers back and no body told me??
~ London, England

Please tell me these people are not brother and sister...but are they old enough to be anything else?!
~ photography studio in Bruges, Belgium

Maybe I don't understand this photo because I don't have kids of my own yet...but I have a feeling that even then I still wouldn't understand. I'll get back to you when the time comes.
~ photography studio in Bruges, Belgium

Lord only knows what else we will find on our travels...but I can't wait to find out!

Sunday, August 14, 2011

Risotto with peas

Growing up my father always had a big garden in the back yard. It occupies the back right corner of the yard, its size varying from year to year depending on how much time my dad had and how many vegetables he wanted to grow. Now that it's just him and my mom in the house the garden has gotten so big that sometimes I think it is going to take up the whole yard. But back when I was a kid I was fortunate enough to have grown up with an abundance of fresh vegetables during the summer months.

It would start with asparagus. The asparagus bed had its own separate location apart from the rest of the garden, seemingly posher than the humble potatoes and corn. As soon as we saw their little tips peeking up from the soil we knew the season was in full swing. It took many, many years for me to finally like the taste of asparagus (without a pound of melted velveeta cheese slathered on top, oh the horror). The same goes for peas.

One of the most vivid memories I have of growing up in my parents house was picking fresh peas from the garden. As a child I loathed the taste of cooked peas - somehow the only ones that I could remember were dull and brownish from being cooked too long in the microwave (sorry mom). But fresh peas, oh those were something different. My parents would send my sister and I out to the garden with a plastic bag and we were to fill it with peas. They were lucky if they ended up with half of the bounty that was growing, the other half in my belly with a trail of empty pods stretching out behind me. I'd seek out the perfect pea pod - not too big (as that meant the peas were too starchy and slightly bitter), not too small (you wanted to actually be able to eat something out of the pod) but just right - the peas would be sweet and tender, and I would gobble them up like candy.

These days I have a better appreciation for the taste of cooked peas, but even now I find it hard to get them cooked just right when we are dining out. And of course now in my life there is the British staple of mushed peas served with fish and chips. But even that is a tricky dish to get right. I don't have the luxury now of picking fresh peas from my parents garden, so the farmers market is my next best option. When I saw a bag of fresh peas last week I knew I had to do something remarkable with them.

I have (slowly) been reading through The Silver Spoon (the holy grail of Italian cooking) and noticed a recipe for Risotto with Asparagus. And that's when the lightbulb went off - Risotto with Peas and Mint. It was my first time cooking risotto and I am hooked. These something so methodical and hypnotizing about stirring a pot for 25 minutes, slowly adding stock, stirring, stirring, stirring. This dish requires very few ingredients so it is critical to use the freshest, best quality ingredients that you can get your hands on.

Risotto with Peas and Mint
Inspired by a risotto recipe by The Silver Spoon cookbook

1.5 litres (2 1/2 pints) of vegetable or chicken stock (homemade or low sodium from the store)

40 grams (1 1/2 oz) butter

3 tblsp olive oil

1/2 onion, chopped

350 grams (12 oz) risotto rice

1 cup fresh peas

1/2 cup fresh grated Parmesan cheese, plus more to serve
Fresh mint, chopped, to taste (I used 10 leaves, about 1 1/5 tblsp chopped)

- Bring the stock to a boil. In a large sauce pan melt the butter and olive oil, add the onion and cook over low heat until the onion is slightly soft and starting to turn translucent. Tip in the rice and stir until the grains are well coated.

- Add a ladleful of the hot stock and cook until the liquid has been absorbed, stirring constantly. Continue to add the stock, one ladleful at a time, making sure that all liquid is absorbed before adding more, stirring constantly. This should take around 20 minutes, give or take a few minutes. After the last ladle of stock is added tip in the peas. Once all of the liquid is absorbed add the fresh grated parmesan cheese and chopped mint and stir just to incorporate.

- Add a few fresh mint leafs and grated parmesan cheese to serve. Makes four generous servings.

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Bone Marrow

Do you remember that time when we went to Italy for two weeks?

Yeahhh...me too....that was nice...

Anywho

When we were in Tuscany the first vineyard that we visited was one of the best Brunello producers in Montalcino - Biondi Santi. When we were there we were very fortunate to meet Mr. Franco Biondi Santi. Not only did we get a chance to meet him but when he found out that we were newlyweds (through a very broken Italian conversation) he gifts us with a bottle of 1983 Brunello. Score one for playing the newlyweds card!

We decided to pop open this vintage over the weekend with some friends. What would go best with this excellent wine? Steak you say? Alrighty then, steak it is!

Before we moved on to the main course though, our friends made some amazing appetizers.

Tucker trying to get his hands on some proscuitto wrapped cheese stuffed dates!

Sean ordered steaks from our FAVORITE butcher in London...a website. Yes, we order our meat from the internet. No we are not ashamed. Because the meat that we get from East London Steak Co is some of the best meat that we have had...EVER. Tony Beef (the guy from ELSC who delivers your order - at 5AM!) deserves his own post, I could go on for years about how much we love this place. But I won't. I have something more exciting to tell you about.

When Sean ordered steaks he decided to be bone marrow as well. Bone marrow? Bone Marrow?!

The first time I ever really read, or heard about people eating bone marrow was when I read Anthony Bourdains book, Kitchen Confidential, last year. He sited roasted bone marrow (specifically from St. JOHN Bar and Restaurant in London) as what he would have as his last meal. Once you get past the part of what bone marrow actually is (I won't go into the deets, if you want a science lesson check it out here) you might actually like it.

Scratch that.

First - don't actually think about what you're eating. It's not going to help you at all.

Second - you aren't going to like it, you're going to LOVE it.

All you have to do to enjoy this beauty? Roast in the oven and toast up some bread. Serve with truffle salt if you want to jazz it up a little, and voila.

Sure, the texture is a little weird...but really only if you eat it with a spoon (which I did not...although...)

Just trust me - you need to try it. Talk to you butcher next time you pay him (or her) a visit.

Good wine, good food, good company.

Sounds like a pretty good Saturday night if you ask me.

Wednesday, June 01, 2011

Orvieto

After checking out of Poggio Piglia we had nearly a full day left in Italy before our flight back to London. We decided to head back towards Rome and spend the afternoon in Orvieto at the recommendation of the villa. Orvieto is a larger town located on the top of a large butte in Umbria. The setting is quite dramatic, you can see the town from miles away perched on top of cliffs seemingly about the topple over the edge. Aside from the stunning location Orvieto is also widely known for its Cathedral.

The Cathedral was stunning - it always amazes me how these massive churches can be so ornate and decorative and at the same time plain and humble. Its an oxymoron I'm still trying to understand after the dozens and dozens of churches that I have seen. We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around the small back streets of the town...

And eating gelato...it wasn't even that good but it was still SO GOOD...if that makes sense...

One more side note/wicked cool thing I had to share (and I'm sure I'm about three and a quarter years behind the times on this thing). I recently downloaded the app "Photosynth" for my iphone which allows you to take panoramic photos and it stitches them together for you. Best.Thing.Ever. And its totally free. Super extra bonus.

I present to you a, slightly wonky, panoramic shot of Orvieto (with two suns...we gotta work on that stitching thing...)

Like what you see?

Friday, January 13, 2012

Thursday, December 15, 2011

Monday, November 28, 2011

Monday, October 31, 2011

Friday, October 28, 2011

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Sunday, August 14, 2011

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Wednesday, June 01, 2011